5 Tips to Protect Car’s Paint – Protection From Summer Heat

Introduction

It is often painful to keep your precious car outside in the hot sun during the summer. On prolonged exposure, the surface pain on your car would get colour-faded, leading to the onset of premature rusting. When you park your vehicle outside the house, its exposed part would get tainted with bird waste, bugs, scratches the children make, bugs and other debris that you can think of. These sources of irritants are capable of causing damage to the surface of the car’s paint. When the debris falls on the surface that is already hot due to the exposure to sun rays, they get baked and embedded inside the paint surface. Hence, this debris becomes stubbornly attached to the paint. The debris becomes progressively harder to get removed. So, you need to take some precautions to protect your car’s paint from fading or getting ruined from the summer sun’s hot rays. In this article, we would be looking at the 5 steps that you need to take to protect your cars.

1. Frequent Car Washing: You have to frequently wash the car to stop the dust and other debris from accumulating on the car surface. The longer dirt or the debris bakes on your car, the more likely it is going to penetrate the paint. This makes it difficult for you to remove the dirt or debris from the car surface by car washing.

2. Keep Dry Your Car After Washing: After properly rinsing the car with sufficient quantity of water and soap, you need to quickly hand dry the surface to stop the dirt from coming back on the car surface. Quick drying also helps to stop the salt deposits from forming on the surface of the car if your area has hard water.

3. Wax your Car: If you wax your car, it creates an extra level of protection from dirt, and debris. The wax also protects your car from the summer sun’s rays.

4. Keep your car by Tree or Building Shade: You can park your car under trees or somewhere where you can shield it from the summer sun. This will not only prevent your car’s paint coating from fading but also helps keep your interior, headlights and tires in better shape.

5. Keep in Garage: It is always better to keep the car in a garage so that unnecessary debris will not fall on it. Moreover, the extent of exposure to sun rays can also be reduced by keeping the vehicle inside the garage.

Removing Tar, Sap and Bugs From Your Car’s Paint

Summer is tar, sap and bug season. During the warm months of summer, insects are at full population, trees and large bushes produce more sap, and the heat of the sun softens the asphalt, producing tar balls. Although sap and tar are a chore to remove, they do not present an immediate hazard to your automobile’s paint finish. However, insect remains are acidic and will quickly damage both paint and trim.

Cleaning Road Tar

While driving, your vehicle is constantly being speckled with small bits of asphalt, tire rubber, grease and oils that is being kicked up by the cars and trucks ahead of you. If allowed to remain on your automobile, these petroleum-based particles will become firmly attached and soap-and-water washing will do little to remove them. Over time the ugly black spots build up and ruin your vehicle’s appearance.

To remove road tar, you need a solvent. Most automotive tar removers contain kerosene, mineral spirits or another petroleum distillate. Don’t worry, though, as they are combined with lubricants to surround and buffer the road tar from your paint. They are quite safe to use.

Of the petroleum distillate products I’ve tried, I like Autoglym’s Intensive Tar Remover the best. A more modern solution for tar removal is the detailing clay bar. If the contamination extremely stubborn on your painted surfaces, use a paint cleaning polish. I recommend Klasse All-In-One. It’s a fine polish, paint cleaner and wax in a single-step process.

Cleaning Tree Sap

Cleaning tree sap off of your vehicle’s finish can be a little more difficult than removing tar or bird droppings. When removed in haste, hardened sap can scratch your paint. I discovered that if I hand rub the spots with a small amount of mineral spirits on a soft cloth, I can easily remove the sap without scratching. Mineral spirits acts as a solvent to break up and dissolve the sap.

If there is a large amount of sap on the car, or if the sap has been left on the finish for an extended period of time, it can be a lot of work to remove. In these extreme cases, I learned that polishing the affected areas with a fine paint rubbing compound removes the hard shell of the sap spots. Once the hard shell is gone the mineral spirits will clean away the remainder with ease. The light-duty rubbing compound softens the sap so the mineral spirits can do its job. The goal is to use the least pressure possible, to reduce the risk of scratching the paint. After removing heavy sap, I always buff the treated areas with a good polish to clean up any marks created during hand rubbing with solvent. The treated area must also be re-waxed.

Cleaning Insects

The head-on collision of between an insect your car’s paint and trim is a disaster for both the bug and your car. As the insect’s exoskeleton explodes, acidic fluids leak onto your car’s paint. This may seem like a small thing, but did you know that shellac is a byproduct of insects? The bug splats on your car are basically shellac mixed with a bunch of nasty stuff. When allow to stay for a few days in the baking sun, any attempt to remove the calcified remains without a proper cleaning solution results in scratched paint.

The secret is to loosen and dissolve insect remains with a solvent that will cut through the shellac. Autoglym Intensive Tar Remover does a great job. For those flying friends with a little extra grip, agitate with soapy water and a paint-safe bug sponge.

If you have a particularly large bug mess, I discovered a Paint Repair Clinic trick that seems to work pretty well. If you use a pre-wax cleaner, such as Klasse All-In-One, apply a small dab to the offending bug splat. Next, cover the spot with a wadded-up tissue and allow it to soak for a few minutes. Then pinch up the mess and give it a soft wipe with the back side of the tissue.

After Cleaning Tar, Sap & Bugs

All of the chemicals used to remove the aforementioned road stains also remove your car’s wax protection. After cleaning away tar, sap or bugs, spot wax the affected areas or re-wax your whole vehicle. If you don’t have time to wax right away, use a quick spray wax like Meguiar’s Ultimate Spray Wax. This product is great for touch-ups or a quick waxing after the weekly wash.

Insider Secret To A Show Car Paint Finish

Have you tried polishing a car by hand lately? If you have, you might think your car polish is defective when the real issue is your vehicle’s paint. That’s because automotive paint finishes have become much harder in the past few years, allowing them to last longer and resist scratching and chipping like never before.

The changes in paint technology, while very beneficial, have introduced a new problem for car owners. While it was possible to maintain automobile paintwork by hand just a few years ago, today’s new paint finishes make it nearly impossible. If your vehicle’s paintwork has minor scratches, swirl marks or water spot etching, you will need a buffer polisher to correct the problem. The good news is that the number one buffing machine for both home and professional use, the Porter Cable 7424, is very effective on even the most modern paint finishes, including the latest ceramic paints used by Mercedes-Benz.

The original Porter Cable Polisher and the new 7424xp are dual-action polishers. What this means is that the polishing head rotates (free-spins on its spindle) and orbits (powered by the motor) around the center spindle. A mass counterweight mechanism on the spindle dampens vibrations. This polishing action, often referred to as “random orbital” or just “orbital,” totally prevents symmetrical buffing marks, paint burns and the other types of automotive finish damage that people associate with high-speed buffing machines. That means if you use the polisher as intended it’s virtually impossible to damage your car, even with no experience.

This type of electric polisher closely mimics the motion of circular hand polishing. Imagine being able to make 2,500 to 6,000 tight hand circles in a single minute. That should give you a pretty good idea of how this machine does its job. Basically it works just like you do, only at super-human speed. Plus, it never gets tired!

If you have previously owned a car waxing machine that made a lot of racket, but did little else to fix the damage and restore shine, you will appreciate the brilliance of one of these buffing machines. It has all of the power needed to get the job done, yet it’s small enough and light enough that it’s easy to use.

The secret to using a dual action polisher with shining results is choosing the right polish and polishing pads for the job. Basically polishing pads come in three grades: cutting, polishing and finishing. A cutting pad is coarse and used to remove damage. A polishing pad has a bit if coarseness, but not much. It’s used to remove very minor damage and restore full gloss. A finishing pad is very soft. It’s used to polish without cutting and to apply waxes and glazes.

You must use an appropriate polish with each type of pad. Like the pads themselves, polishes have different grades of cut. A compound, for example, is a cutting polish. Compounds are rated by the level of sanding scratch they can remove. A compound designed to remove 2000 to 2500 grit sanding scratches will effectively remove swirl marks and water spots, whereas a product that can remove 1200 to 1500 grit sanding marks will remove fine scratches. If you can feel a scratch with your fingernail, you should remove it with 2000 grit wet and dry sandpaper before polishing.

If you’re confused about which polish to use to remove swirl marks, fine scratches and water spots, let me recommend Meguiar’s Ultimate Compound. It’s probably the best consumer grade product available today, and it’s easy to find at your local auto parts store.

After compounding to remove damage, you might think the finish looks great, but I recommend finishing off the job with a fine polish. Most compounds, including the new Meguiar’s product, will leave just a touch of hazing in the clear coat. All it takes to remove the hazing and restore a brilliant shine is a fine paint polish. I prefer and recommend Klasse All-In-One. It’s an amazing product that will produce a final finish that blows you away.

New automotive paints may be too hard to maintain by hand, but the solution is easy. A Porter Cable 7424xp gets the job done faster that you ever could by hand, and it’s a quality machine that will last a lifetime.